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Enjoy the Magic of Staying in a Han

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Maškovića Han, Vrana, Dalmatia


Perhaps our most unusual experience in Croatia was the two nights we spent in delightful Maškovića Han, a heritage hotel that opened its doors in 2017… over 370 years after its construction began!


370 years! How is this even possible?
And what is a han?


We were very intrigued. Then we heard the story, worthy of ‘The Tales of the Arabian Nights’.


Jusuf Mašković’s Tragic Destiny


In the early 1600s, at a time when Croatia was under Turkish occupation, an Ottoman Court high official noticed the sharp mind of a barefoot boy in Vrana and took him to the Court in Constantinople to work as a gardener. The boy, Jusuf Mašković, befriended Ibrahim, the Sultan’s younger brother who had been jailed by the Sultan. When the Sultan died and Ibrahim inherited the throne, Mašković was propelled to a career in the navy and gained fame as an admiral for conquering Chania in Crete in 1645.


There are different endings to the tale. According to the local story, the mercy and generosity he showed the defeated Cretan army and citizens angered the Sultan who condemned him to death. Other versions tell that he married the Sultan’s three-year-old daughter (!!) and received the Ibrahim Pasha Palace as a residence, but was condemned to death in 1646 at the persuasion of his political rivals. Or maybe he was found strangled in his room and nobody ever knew who murdered him.


What we know for sure is that in 1644, he had started the construction of Maškovića Han where he wanted to live after retirement. Up to 500 workers were active on the site daily, but the han was never completed due to the admiral’s untimely death. It remained a romantic ruin until local municipalities obtained grants from the European Union and the Ministry of Culture to finish the construction.


This was just a few years ago!


Experts in Ottoman architecture participated in the project so that the results could closely reflect Mašković’s dream.

Outer walls of Maškovića Han

Mašković’s Dream Home


Mašković had intended his residence to be luxurious, with modern amenities including a Turkish bath, and to also serve as a han. A Turkish han, also called a caravansary in Persian, is a roadside inn with a large courtyard that accommodates caravans overnight. Since the 5th century, hans have gradually dotted the main trade routes in the Middle East, Central Asia and North Africa, especially in remote places, to protect travellers from robbers and wildlife.


Maškovića Han is the most significant example of secular Ottoman architecture in Croatia and the westernmost monument of this type in Europe. We felt very privileged to experience life within its walls. Its plan is traditional, comprising of a rectangular walled exterior, with a single portal wide enough for heavily laden beasts. The courtyard was for the use of merchants and their animals, with rooms and stores for their use. It now accommodates the reception, a lovely souvenir shop with local products, a local history museum and a beautiful outdoor area for events.


The hamam was tuck on a side of the courtyard and is still visible in its archeological state.

Hamam (Turkish bath)

Maškovića Han as a Heritage Hotel


The Rooms


Albeit a 4-star hotel, Maškovića Han is a much more modest affair than what the admiral had intended. Still, we were perfectly happy with it and with the whole experience of staying there.


The family quarters and the mosque were going to be at the back, beyond an elegant arch. This is where the 14 guestrooms, 2 suites and the restaurant are now.


We did not mind the room being a bit dark as it was part of the han traditional architecture and quite atmospheric. Being built against the hugely thick outer wall, the only daylight came from a high-up, arrowslit-type window. A tall, narrow fireplace complete with a cool weight system to open the chimney trap was another great feature.

  • The room: modern furniture…
  • …and an arrowslit arrow – 370 years apart!
  • The fireplace
  • The chimney trap-opening system


The room had a SAT-TV (not that we used it, with so much to see in the area!), a minibar and air-conditioning. The bathroom was well appointed. The lattice wood on the mirrors added a touch of elegance and the slick modern furniture matched the sobriety of the stone walls.

The Restaurant


The restaurant occupies the site of the old mosque. We loved the high ceiling and arched windows.


You can choose between two patios, both softly lit, intimate and quiet.

  • Private quarters patio
  • Courtyard patio


Dinner was a tad pricey but delicious and the waiter very friendly.

Mixed grill and polenta, local, fresh and delicious!


We particularly enjoyed sitting on the small patio under the medlar in the early morning. The background music was soft and soothing. Breakfast was a cold buffet, perfectly decent but a bit disappointing after the pantagruelian morning meals we had enjoyed everywhere else in Croatia.


Moonlight Magic


Spending the evening in the han was truly magic. We walked around the walls in the moonlight. The only sound was the chirping of the crickets.


There was not a soul in sight. Hard to believe that this was once a busy trading road!

Han entrance in the moonlight, on a deserted road


Then we came back inside.


The courtyard too was wonderfully quiet.

Moonlight over the old chambers now accommodating the souvenir shop and reception
Peace and quiet in the courtyard


The arches were beautifully lit, each angle offered another mesmerizing sight and we could not stop taking photos.


Going to bed felt so cozy and safe, with the huge entrance gate shut and thick walls surrounding us. This is how travellers must have felt too in the old days.

Maškovića Han sleeping quarters in the moonlight


We highly recommend this experience if you enjoy Middle-Eastern architecture and tranquillity in the countryside.

Caper flowers hanging from the outer walls

Practical Information

LOCATION

Maškovića Han is located in Vrana, Zadar County, just north of Vransko Lake and inland from Pakoštane and Biograd.


WHAT TO DO AND SEE IN THE AREA

Historical Zadar and Sibenik, and Krka National Park are all within reach for day trips. Access is faster with the toll road but the small roads are well worth the effort, especially the coastal one.

Nearby, Pakoštane is a laidback little harbour town with beaches and taverns serving tasty traditional Dalmatian food, some with live music. Biograd is another historical coastal town with good beaches.

Nature lovers will enjoy birdwatching along the Vranska Lake ornithological trail

And right opposite the han are the ruins of Old Vrana, a former center of ecclesial, military and political power. They are now overgrown with bramble and there is not much to see, but they are a good reminder that Maškovića Han was once in noble company.

How about you, what kind of hotels do you like? Do you tend to seek out heritage hotels? Have you got great recommendations?

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34 Comments

  • Christina

    January 25, 2020 at 22:05 Reply

    Wow! I’ve never heard of Han before! Looks like a unique place to visit! Truly seems to allow for an organic experience. Thank you for sharing your experience!

    • Albertajoiedevivre

      January 19, 2020 at 20:36 Reply

      Croatia is relatively small but beautiful and varied: great landscapes, especially on the littoral and in the National Parks, contrasts between cultures inland and on the coast, superb architecture, delicious fresh local food, and last but certainly not least, welcoming people. I would recommend avoiding the high season as it gets very busy.

    • Albertajoiedevivre

      January 18, 2020 at 11:18 Reply

      I would love to hear more about these hotels in Malta. Croatia is lovely indeed. It is busy though and more enjoyable in the low season.

  • Tara

    January 18, 2020 at 07:20 Reply

    Wow! This looks like such a unique and interesting place to stay. And the history behind it all is so fascinating. Thanks for sharing!

  • Kita

    January 16, 2020 at 22:37 Reply

    OMG to a 3 yr old! I am hoping that one story was WAY off! But otherwise – totally fascinating background and it certainly makes me want to know more! As for the building – can we talk about that roof in the dining room! Stunning! And how weird that ppl expect TVs maybe there’s only a few of us that just don’t use them? This really does look like an enchanting stay! I am in the area later this year and maybe need to add a few extra nights!

    • canadianfarwest

      January 17, 2020 at 12:35 Reply

      We hope the story is way off indeed, but perhaps it is not. Child marriages were unfortunately common. They took place for political purposes, especially in the nobility. Thankfully they could not be consummated before the children reached legal marriage age (around 12 for girls and 14 for boys, still pretty young!).
      As for the dining room roof, yes it is quite something! The building is what was going to be the mosque and on the walls, you can still see the slots for the old gallery. As a photographer, you will have a ball!
      I also found the presence of TVs incongruous in such a setting. Needless to say I did not use it (In my whole life of well over half a century I owned a TV for about 2 years).
      If you go I will be excited to hear about your experience!

  • kmf

    January 16, 2020 at 21:27 Reply

    What an intriguing history and so cool that this vision was made into a reality despite the amount of time that passed. And what gorgeous photos – a very unique experience!

    • canadianfarwest

      January 16, 2020 at 14:17 Reply

      Yes Lauren, I highly recommend Croatia (in the low season) and hope to see more of it in the future. I intend to write a few more posts on my trip over there, so watch this space 🙂

  • Shirley

    January 16, 2020 at 12:09 Reply

    My travel style is quite casual, heck, I’m most happy in a tent on the side of a mountain! I’m not too particular about hotels, as long as it’s a safe place to stay. This one looks nice though and I would love to stay there.

    • canadianfarwest

      January 16, 2020 at 12:27 Reply

      Hey Shirley, I am an avid camper too and regularly camp in the Rockies, as you can see from my other blogposts. When I travel abroad though, I like discovering places with local charm, whether they are heritage or boutique hotels, huts, ecolodges, staying with people in local communities in Africa…

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